Yushan, also known as Jade Mountain, is the tallest peak in Taiwan and the tallest in Northeast Asia. It is a beast of a mountain and from a distance, looks near impossible to climb but in reality, apart from the last 400m, it’s not too bad, providing you’re in shape and the weather is kind to you!
By far the hardest part of climbing Yushan has to be getting the permit in the first place! With all of us working full-time, we needed to get a permit to stay in the Paiyun Cabin on a Saturday night and unfortunately that is the most popular day.
Typically for a weekend permit, there are 2000 people competing for a mere 100 places, giving us a one in twenty chance. Not good odds and it took 14 attempts before we finally hit the jackpot (Yes, I am incredibly stubborn). I would seriously recommend anyone thinking of climbing Yushan to try for a weekday, or choose another mountain!
Our trip began on Friday evening when we drove down to Shizi, near Alishan. We arrived around 2am and stopped there for the night at a bed and breakfast. The first day of hiking just involved getting to the Paiyun Cabin (4-5 hours of hiking) and so we weren’t in any particular hurry to get to the trailhead which is at Tatajia.
The view from the B+B was very nice and it looked as though the weather would hold out for the day. After eating, we finished off the drive up to Tatajia. Not far from Tatajia we came across a load of Formosan Macaques who were hanging around the roadside, presumably waiting for passing tourists to feed them.
At Tatajia we were supposed to hand in our permit but somehow it had disappeared. However the park ranger was really nice and just printed out another copy for us. After showing our IDs and getting checked off one-by-one, we were shown a short film which you are required to watch before entering the park. The film is OK and some of the safety stuff is worth watching but it seemed a shame that they showed so many of the features of the trail. Personally I prefer to discover things rather than be shown them but at least the film is short and after 10mins we were ready to get going.
From the Tatajia Visitors Centre, it’s a fairly long walk to the actual trailhead but the park run a shuttle bus service which costs 100NT person. A bit steep but we were more than happy to pay it. The trail to Paiyun cabin is cut into the side of the mountain and for the most part it gently climbs upwards. There are a few sections that are steep and harder work but mostly it’s OK.
Around 6km into the hike, there is a small pavilion which makes a great place to stop for lunch, providing it not too crowded and just before it there is an eco-toilet with the strangest sign in the whole of Taiwan!
Walking in to Paiyun was great, loads of interesting plants to see along the way and the clouds kept sweeping in and out alternating between shading us from the sun and giving us wonderful views of the mountains and valley.
We arrived around 2.30pm and got sorted out with our spaces in the cabin. After a short rest and some tea, a few of us headed off towards to the West Peak, but none of us were really that up for it and after 10 mins or so we stopped to just laze around and bask in the sunlight. Then I spotted what looked like a small trail going directly up from the main trial and we climbed up to find an amazing view of the main peak of Yushan.
We headed back to the cabin, ate and then found a nice spot to watch the sunset. It was probably the most beautiful sunset I’ve seen in Taiwan. The sky just got redder and redder and it was truly amazing.
The unfortunate thing about sharing a cabin with other groups is that you are at the mercy of their wake-up call. Our part of the cabin had 4 groups, one of which wanted to get up at 1.30am to start out for the peak and so we had no choice but to join them in the early start.
The temperature dropped to about 5C outside but inside was surprisingly warm and I had to dispense with my sleeping hag halfway through the night. Normally I’d say 1.30 is a tough time to get up but it was such a restless night for me that I was glad to get up and finally have something to do!
After a quick breakfast we, got our torches on and hit the trail at 2.30am. It was a beautiful moonlit night with millions of stars. The moon was so bright that we didn’t even need to use our torches for most of the climb.
The beginning of the trail slowly zigzags upwards and if you take your time it’s easy going. After 40mins we got to the more difficult part. It is marked by a signboard. Just after this there are two routes. The one with the chains to the left is only for the winter-time when the snow is bad and so we continued upwards on the main path. Care is needed here and so we switched on the torches again. It is easy to lost from this point and it’s very important that you keep looking ahead to make sure that you are still following the trial.
The trail has a tunnel built to protect hiker from falling rocks and scree. Take care here, especially coming down, as the tunnel is quite low and, as Rodger will testify, it is easy to hit your head on the beams!
The end of the tunnel is known as Fengkou. It can be dangerously windy here but there was only a slight breeze for us. After Fengkou, is the final ascent. It’s a hard scramble up with plenty of chains to hold on to and to guide you up.
We finally got to the top at 3.45am. Way too early but at least we were the first ones up there and got to stake out a good spot to watch the sunrise which was again incredibly beautiful.
As it got closer to sunrise the peak got more and more ‘renao’ and some of us headed off to the right to find a quieter spot. The views were unbelievable. We could see for miles all around and when the sun finally came up, Yushan cast a huge shadow over the mountains to the south.
After getting our fill of photos it was just a case of scrambling back down to the cabin, packing up and then hiking out the way we came. Coming down, it was interesting to see just how steep and dangerous the ascent had been.
More photos of Yushan
Neil’s version of events and excellent photos here
Practicalities
Permits – Foreigners can apply up to 3 months in advance, providing they wish to climb Yushan on a weekday. Otherwise you’ll need to apply between 33 and 30 days in advance. The application then goes into a draw and if you’re lucky, you’ll win the lottery and get a permit.
Paiyun is a bit cramped, especially if the weather’s bad and everyone is inside but it’s better than nothing. There is a good water supply, toilets and a small kitchen. It should get rebuilt sometime this year.
At Tatajia there is a small hostel, Dongpu Hostel 東埔山莊, that makes a good place to sleep the night before beginning an ascent of Yushan. (Tel: 049-2702213)
Transport
Buses go from Chiayi to Alishan but stop there. It’s about another 20km to Tatajia from there and hitching or walking would be the only option. Otherwise you’ll need to drive to the trailhead or hire a driver and vehicle.
[…] Cheers, -Neil As usual, I’ll be lazy and differ the practicalities to Stu over at Hiking Taiwan. […]
Congratulations Stu! Your photos from the hike are fantastic!
Cheers mate, we had great weather for it this time!
[…] (玉山) or Jade Mountain is the highest mountain in Taiwan at 3,952 metres. Neil Wade and Stu Dawson have great photos and description of climbing to the […]
Congratulations on conquering Jade Mountain, Stu! Your photos are awesome 🙂
Thanks! I actually climbed it a few weeks ago but the weather was so bad that I didn’t bother to blog it. This time we had better luck!
It’s small world I guess but I hiked Yushan the same weekend as you guys. Nice blog and pictures.
Here is my blog (with a token writeup). http://theworldisnotthatbig.wordpress.com/
And photos http://www.pbase.com/kabeiser/yushan_jade_mountain
I will say that Stu’s group was great since one of them let me borrow a spoon to eat dinner with.
Thanks! Nice blog by the way and no worries about the spoon, it’s a miracle I actually remembered to bring it as it’s the one thing I always forget!
Awesome blog, Stu. Very informative
[…] 玉山 Hostel in Chiayi […]
sure very soon i m going to do this… feel that the spirit of the mountain is calling me..
[…] pictures of the trail looked really lovely. Credit to this great very informative blog. Thank goodness it is written in […]
Could you let me know where I could find the status of the Paiyun Cabin? Great post – I’ve been reading the entries over and over for months, just to daydream. And now I’m here!
Hi
You can try the Yushan National Park website, but they don’t seem to update it very often. I just search in Chinese and try to find out what ppl are posting on their blogs. Last time I searched (3 weeks ago) the rumour was that it won’t open until the end of this year at the earliest.
Stu
I am climbing Jade Mountain this weekend, reading your story helps me out a lot, I get to learn many things and know what to expect. However, the last 2 pic freaks me out a lot… I never like height… Are we all gonna have to walk through it???
Mo
Hi mo,
Do you have a permit? Yes you’ll have to walk through those sections. However the paiyun cabin is shut at the moment and you’ll have to do the hike in a day
Stu
Hi Stu,
The rumor was true,the cabin was shut down, due to the reconstruction work, our hike (scheduled 4/14-14/15)needed to be postponed. And yes, I have the permit and meeting in Chaiyi at 7 am on sat. I really have no idea what to expect…(a little now after reading your infomative story) Not sure if the paiyun cabin is open to the public, but its a 2-day trip,so I suppose we are staying there??? That section of the hike…scares me a lot, I have never been on a roller coaster…
Anything special you suggest me to take with?? I have wrote a list of things down, but would be grateful for more details for the hike! Thanks!
Mo
Hi,
The last section is quite difficult but there are lots of ropes and chains to help you up. As far as I’m aware the cabin is still shut. You might be going yuanfeng cabin but that’s a lot further away.
You shouldn’t need anything special for the hike, just make sure you have warm clothes as even in summer it can be very cold at the top
Stu
HI,
Thanks for all your time responding. I called the tour guide this morning to ask him a few questions and looks like we are staying yuanfeng cabin. Hope I can manage myself to conquer the last section of the hike, hopefully to return with glory and pride!
Have a great day
Mo
How did it go Maureen? Hope it went well, I’m scheduled to go up next month and just looking at the last photo is giving me second thoughts~
Sam
Hi Sam,
Sorry for the late reply, I havent checked the website after the hike. The trip was absolutely amazing, the view was incredible, we had a good crew of people climbing up together. Proud to say that I made it. A trip to rememeber. How was ur trip?
Hi can anyone suggest a touring group that organizes hikes to either goes to Yushan or Xueshan?
I need one that can organize equipment, permits, guides,etc.
Thanks in advance.
Eric
I’ve sent you an email Eric.
Stu
Hi Stu,
My team have plan to hike Yunshan on the 7-8 or 14-15 January (2012). Yunshan is expected to have snow on that day. So, It is may be a little bit challenge.
I need one that can organize equipment, permits, guides,.. too.
Best Thanks
Blue Sea
Nguyenbluesea77@gmail.com
I’m also interested in hiking Yushan with my wife and daughter next April 2012. I’m a foreigner (U.S.) Trying to connect with a group that can help with obtaining trip permits and lodging at Paiyun. Thanks for any assistance you can offer.
Jordan
Seattle, US
If during this time, crampons are no longer necessary, then my friends and i will push through Yushan Wk1 of April instead of Snow Mt.
Yushan is a far more technical climb than Snow. The last scramble up to the top at Yushan involves a fair amount of pulling yourself up on chains and ropes and in snowy conditions it could be very difficult.
The chains and ropes are fine. But crampons! whoah! Not really into it..
or maybe we just need to sleep it over! haha Actually, we are just considering Taiwan as training for our Kili climb this May. We do not need crampons on Kili 😦
Hi Stu,
Need a bit of clarification on getting to Tataka Visitor center. My plan is an arrival day we will go to Chiayi by fast train>take bus to Alishan and overnite. The next day take a cab or bus to Tataka Visitor centre > apply entry permit > watch video and take shuttle bus to trail head. Is this correct? I dont have to go to Dongpu?
Hi
The Paiyun Cabin is closed at the moment and so the only option for doing Jade Mountain is the brutal 1 day ascent. You need to apply for a park entry permit in advance (at least 7 days before) and then apply for the mountain entry permit at Tatajia. However it is snow season now and the Yushan National Park won’t let you climb there unless you or a member of your group has a snow training certificate.
Stu
Is the Paiyun cabin still closed?
Yes, it might open in the summer
Trying to apply for a 1 day permit, as part of this have to submit an itinerary – can anyone advise?
Can you read Chinese? Something like this will probably do, but you’ll need to edit it to suit your own plan.
11月25日:
14:00出發→17:00上東埔停車場,搭帳棚,自備睡袋及睡墊,晚餐宵夜自理。
11月26日:
02:00起床,吃早餐→03:00出發→04:00玉山登山口,整理裝備→04:30開始登山,
沿途有指標、涼亭、一個乾式廁所→07:50到達排雲山莊,休息→08:30出發,一路都是
爬坡→10:30登頂,拍照留念→11:00下山,建議穿護膝,並使用兩枝登山杖→12:30回排雲山莊,用點心(自理)→12:30下山→15:30到達玉山登山口,乘坐九人座接駁車回上東埔停車場→16:00開車返回→18:00到達水里聚餐→21:00回到台中會館。
攜帶裝備:
1.團體裝備:無線電、簡易急救包、瓦斯爐、瓦斯罐。
2.個人裝備:睡袋及睡墊,遮陽帽、防寒帽、頭燈、耳塞、長袖排汗衣、保暖衣、防水透氣型雨衣、手套、手機、打火機、小刀、登山杖2枝、長褲、登山鞋、護膝、中型登山背包、碗筷、飲用水、水壺(保溫瓶)、中型垃圾袋(裝個人物品,防水用)、11月25日晚餐及宵夜、11月26日中餐及行動糧、個人藥品、防曬油、衛生紙、身份證件務必要帶、相機、個人盥洗用具(毛巾、牙刷、牙膏等)。
注意事項:
1.隊員之間請互相照顧,若有身體不適請告知領隊,勿勉強登山。
2.遇到緊急意外狀況,如隊員嚴重身體不適及天候惡劣變化及其他突發狀況等,領隊經與隊員討論後,有權決定中止行程。
3.11月26日11:30無法登頂者,須放棄登頂,以免影響團隊行程。
4.行程中,手機及無線電須保持暢通,遇有狀況隨時聯絡。
5.請愛護山林生態,勿大聲喧嘩,勿攀折花木,所有個人垃圾須自行帶下山。
Thanks very much
Thanks very much for your help…..permit received (unbelievably tricky)! Now one more question….there is mention of a mythical DongPu hostel, but i can’t find anything on the web or anyway of booking. Does it, or some other accommodation near the trailhead actually exist?
Here you go
dongpu.mmweb.tw/?ptype=info
[…] Stu Dawson details his experience in scaling Jade Mountain on his blog. Pass This […]
Just climbed – spoke to the park and they said that end of 2012 is the earliest expected opening for the cabin. Still ongoing legal battles between the park and the construction company. It really could open at any time, but the ‘word’ was that anything prior to Dec 2012 is unlikely. It is a nice climb to do in one day – rough on the legs and feet, but a really really nice climb if you are in shape/prepared.
Thanks for the update Trevor! I think if it gets down to December then even if everything OK, the cabin won’t open until after the snow season, march/april time.
Hi,
I’m planning to hikes Mt Jade on the 2nd week of Oct, probably 8 Oct. Do anyone have the contract on the tour guide etc.
We would travel in two; which landed in taipei.
Please response me at: bsking78@hotmail.com.
Many thanks
Hi
I think you’ll be too late to hike Jade Mountain. Permits need to be applied for at least 7 days in advance. Also the Paiyun Cabin is closed and you’d have to do the tough single day ascent.
Stu
Hi, I’m about to make the trip up to Yushan nov 5th, 2012 – seems the gear needed is a lot (according to a presentation by the group head) and buying new is expensive – I want to ask you – what are the bare minimals ? I can handle single digits without much of a problem – don’t want to spend a fortune on the gear – please let me know – madan.sg@gmail.com – thanks – Siddarth
Who is your group head? If it is a Taiwanese leader, then you will be encouraged to bring extensive gear. They like gear, but trust me (if you will) after a childhood hiking in the Canadian Rockies, working in the Arctic, multi-day canoe tripping….less gear is more. If you are doing the one day ascent, I would make sure you have the following:
Rain coat / good hiking boots / 2+water bottles /. a dry change of clothes (in case it rains and you get cold / toque (warm hat) / reliable headlamp or flashlight / sunscreen / sweater / food
Its not a technical hike at all, but an all day slog. Tough on the body, light on the gear requirements. Make sure you eat enough, drink enough (water….not beer!) and pace yourself and you will make it to the top without problems. Be prepared for a sore body the next day, but remember that the beauty of Taiwans peaks is worth it!
peace, and good luck
Thanks Trevor, Su, gave me some direct guidance !! appreciate you guys for your inputs !!
Hi, any info on hiking YuShan in mid Feb 2013, after the Chinese New Year. Is the cabin open by then? What website do we go to apply for the permit? I’m have a Taiwanese passport but my husband is from the US.
Hi
The national park won’t let you hike there without a snow season training certificate. You could wait until April for the snow to go or alternatively Snow Mountain is Taiwan’s second highest peak and an excellent climb. No need for a certificate https://apply.spnp.gov.tw/
Hi would the climb be too difficult for someone who is rather physically unfit? I read from your experience that apparently the last leg is difficult because it uses your arm strength?
It’s pretty tough and with the cabin closed, the only option is to do the single day ascent which is even tougher.
oh man i’m kind of hoping it would be done by the time i get there… Anyway are there any peaks that I could try out? Ones with nice scenery
Snow mountain is a great 2 day 2 night hike
ps. I’ll be going in Aug
im still blur about this… any agent can help me to get all the permit…. im will be around on 1-7oct 2013
Hi
Send us an email at info@taiwan-adventures.com and we’ll see what we can do for you.
Stu
[…] Jade Mountain or Mount Yu is the highest peak, at 3,950 […]
hello there, this was mighty useful but im just wondering if you had a english-speaking planner to organize everything for you ? I’m also trying to see if i can apply for the permit but none of the website works for me. will be awesome if you can help point me in the right direction, thanks !
Hey, we hiked the yushan last week and weren’t as lucky as you with the weather conditions, but it was still an awesome hike!
Hi your blogpost was really informative, thank you for it. May I ask what time did you reach Tatajia and start the hike?
Also, did you rent a car for the drive up there? Is the rental of cars expensive?
Looking forward to your reply!
Cheers
Started the hike around 8am. We’ve rented cars previously. Cheapest ones cost around $2000 a day.
Hi! I would like to climb the Jade Mountain. Do you know if the Paiyun Cabin is still closed? I can not find it on the internet. I would otherwise love to do this hike with my parents at the beginning of January. Do you think we need a guide? And how can we get a guide?
Thanks!
Hi, it’s open again. If you’d like to engage a guide for the trip, send an email to info@taiwan-adventures.com
Stu