Dabajianshan 大霸尖山 is one of the most distinctive peaks in the whole of Taiwan. It’s barrel-like shape thrusts upwards, looking impossible to climb. It has fascinated people for centuries and even the local aboriginal tribe, the Attyal, believe that Daba is a holy mountain.
This hike used to be an exceptionally popular 2 day trip, which explains the huge size of the 99 cabins 九九山莊. However, as the Dalu Forestry Road 大鹿林道 is in a state of disrepair, it’s now nessecary to hike the 19km along the road just to get to the trailhead proper.
It’s not that bad and that’s as nice as I can be about it. The road is perfectly safe to walk on, there are some nice views, as well as a number of waterfalls and so all that’s needed is a positive attitude and some good conversation (or an MP3 player!).
It took us about 5 hours to get to the Madala River 馬達拉溪 where a suspension bridge crosses to the trailhead. There’s a good source of water here as well as couple of buildings that can provide shelter which was lucky for us as as soon as we arrived the heavens opened. Summers in Taiwan are often characterised by afternoon thunderstorms so we just sat it out on the balcony of the abandoned forestry building, drinking tea and by 3.30pm the rain had passed.
Over the bridge the trail is very different to the forestry road, steep and winding but very beautiful. It’s 4.2km along this path to the 99 cabins and we were all knackered by the time we got there.
There are a number of buildings at the 99 cabins and we were lucky enough to get one of the smaller round houses to ourselves meaning we could spread our gear and sleep in ‘relative’ peace.
Not wanting to get caught in the afternoon rain again, we decided it would be best to get up at silly o’clock (4am) and aim to be on the trail by 5am. As we began the climb to the Gaodi 高地, we a gorgeous sunrise over the hills below and we could even spot Yangmingshan poking out through the early morning mist.
At the Gaodi there’s a crossroad, right goes to Jiali Mountain 加利山 and left leads to Dabajianshan. We headed left thinking that if the weather held, we could get Jialishan in on the way back. The trail from here is relatively easy going. Lots of ups and downs and spectacular views of the cities and coast to the left and the Holy Ridge to the right.
After a couple of hours we got to a small hill called Zhongbashan (not a baiyue 百岳) and it was here that we got our first good look at Daba and the slightly smaller Xiaoba. Daba looked as imposing and difficult to climb as ever. Earlier at the cabin, we had been warned by the parks guy not to climb to the peak of Daba as the ladders had been destroyed and from there that looked like good advice!
The trail then runs through a small forested area and then comes out on the scree at the foot of Daba. We crossed this and then followed the path that goes along the base of Daba, not a place to hang around considering the amount of debris that has come down from the top.
Again at the over side there’s a crossroad, right for Xiaobajianshan and left to get to the top of Daba. We decided to go right to take a look and see what all the fuss was about. It starts off OK, but the very last climb to the top is extremely hairy and we didn’t even bother trying. Instead we sat in the shade ate lunch and the set off along the spine towards Xiaoba.
The walk across is fantastic, huge drops to either side and the climb up to Xiaoba is also very exhilarating. After a few quick photos and a chat with the other hikers, headed back the way we’d come.
On the way back there is very short path that leads to Yize Mountain 伊澤山. From the top of here you get the best views of Daba and Xiaoba but unfortunately the clouds began to roll in and quickly headed down towards the Cabin. Back at the Gaodi we decided to make a dash for Jialishan, but by the time we got there, all we could see were clouds. Still it’s one more to tick off the list.
We got back to the cabin around 2.30pm and then at 3pm it began pouring with rain again. It looked like getting up early had paid off as we sat dry in the cabin and watch everyone else soaked to the bone slowly wander back.
We were again treated to another beautiful sunset before heading to bed. The next morning we were up early and made our way back to Guanwu and the car at a leisurely pace.
Practicalities
Contact Taiwan Adventures if you’re interested in a guided hike to Dabajianshan.
Permits can be applied for at the Sheipa National Park Site, don’t forget to apply for a mountain entry permit too. That can be done at the police station at Guanwu or online. Also each person must pay $200NT to stay at the 99 cabins per night. That can be paid at the cabin – just don’t forget your wallet!
There is no public transport to Guanwu. The only thing to do is drive or find a driver. See the map below for directions.
There is a good water source at the Madala River and at the 99 cabins.
The 99 cabins are huge and have solar powered lighting, toilets and a large kitchen area.
You need to begin the hike before 11am or the park won’t let you on to the forestry road.
Looks like the 19km trek in is well worth enjoying the scenery away from the crowds. Great pics
It is, just wish it was 10km instead! The good thing is that it puts a lot of people off and that means getting a permit is pretty easy.
“It’s not that bad” is quite a kind way to describe that 19km, especially on the way back.
The other mountain is called ‘Yizeshan’
Great pics and great trip and definitely a great day to take your breath away. Thumbs up Stu!!
Thanks! We got very lucky with the weather which always makes for good photos!
Hey, i wonder if this is steeper and much more dangerous to hike than the Wuliajian or not. thanks. great post as always
Hi Eddie,
The hike goes through lots of different types of terrain. The forestry road is flat and wide. From the suspension bridge up to the cabin is steep but not especially dangerous. From there to Daba, the trail goes up and down with only a few big drops to worry about. The final section to Xaioba is more dangerous, particularly the climb to the summit of Xiaoba but if you’re OK doing Wuliaojian, I’m sure you’ll find it OK.
Of course all of that depends on the conditions, we were lucky with the weather and I can imagine in the rain with a strong wind that climbing Xiaoba would be very dangerous.
Oh ok, thanks for taking your time to respond. looking forward to more great write ups. take care bro!
Is the 19km doable on a motorbike, or are some parts closed from landslides? Thanks!
It’s doable but illegal and the people at the beginning checkpoint might have something to say about you trying!
I was recently looking into hiking this mountian, and i found this http://www.cpami.gov.tw/english/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=11292&Itemid=3 . now i just want to make sure i read it correctly, but does that make it illegal to hike to the peak? if so, i envy yall for getting to make the treck.
It was the same when we went. You can walk up to and around the base of Daba but just not up to the top.
Yeah, it was like that when we went so we didn’t get to the very top. You can still hike to the base of Daba though.
Hey,
Awesome Dabajianshan review.
We’re looking at doing 31st Dec to 2nd of Jan.
Chances of snow on Dabajian mtn?? Should we invest in snow gear? It snowed at Snow Mountain in April so…. your thoughts?
Regards
Matt
Hard to say really. There’s a chance, I know it’s snowed at Yushan recently. What kind of snow gear were you thinking of buying?
Stu,
A snowmobile would be ideal 😉 but since funds are low, I might invest in some warmer gear and some crampons for my boots. Any other suggestions? I don’t think it will be too bad to be honest but precautions are always necessary.
Any idea about the popularity of Daba around the times we want permits?
Cheers,
Matt
Warm gear would be a good idea! You can get 4 and 6 point crampons for $500-1000 and they’ll almost certainly do you.
Daba used to be massively popular, but now you need to hike the forestry road, there are less people who want to go there so getting permits shouldn’t be too hard. The only thing is that you are going on a weekend so don’t leave it too late to apply!
Actually I just checked, there are 100 spaces and 60 have gone already so you might need to do it ASAP
https://apply.spnp.gov.tw/BookingInfo.php?MonthInfo=1&HouseID=66
Guys, I plan to do a winter traverse / shengleng trail end of January 2011 to early Feb 2011.
Any idea where I can get a guide? I know, it’s big holiday season, Chinese New Year, and my last communication with Shei-Pa National Park, they’re still open during Chinese New Year.
Plan is to start at Trailhead Madara (Guanwu) and end in Wuling Farm!
Richard has some info here
looks like your weather is awesome!
When did you go and what do you think the conditions would be like for a late march hike?
We went in the summer. March will be cold and you might see some snow as well.
Is there any possible hiking with you guys?
Hi Alice,
We’re running some trips through a facebook group at the moment. Have a look here if you’d like to join us. http://www.facebook.com/groups/TaiwanAdventures/
Stu
Hi Stu,
Very informative trip report & definitely helps on my planning to Dabajian Mountain. May I ask you a few questions:
1. Other than August, which months are good for the hiking?
2. How did you get to Guanwu? What is the distance from Taipei Airport to there?
3. Will you organize any trip to there in 2013?
Thanks for the information you may provide to me!
Camony
Hi
Anytime is good to climb Daba.
You need your own transport to get to Guanwu. I’s guess from the airport it’s about a 3-4 hour drive.
We have a trip to Daba planned for April 4th-6th. There’s more info about the trip on our facebook group;
https://www.facebook.com/events/125163827650446/
Thanks
Stu
Hi Stu, I live in Vancouver of Canada & will go to Hong Kong between Nov 6 and 16. Will you organize a trip to Daba in this period? Please let me know the details as I would like to join. Thanks, Camony Yim from Vancouver
Hi
At the moment we don’t have a schedule for November. We’ll come up with hikes for then around May.
Have you joined the Facebook group? That’s the easiest way to keep up with up coming events.
Stu
Hi, i’m planning to trek from Snow Mountain (Wuling) to Daba out to 99 Hut and Madara.
As for now, do you have any information about the forestry road from Madara to Guanwu? I mean is the road now accessible with car or kind or 4wd truck?
I’m not sure if Daba is open again. The road was taken out in the smmer during a typhoon.
If it is open, the forestry road is accessible only by foot. It’s around 17km.
The last section over to Daba is often closed in the winter. If there’s snow or ice it’s quite dangerous unless you have protection in place.
The last post was two years ago. What updates about Daba since then? Thx! Ray
It’s been shut for ages. I don’t think the original trail will open again. There’s a new one from Zhenxibao, but it’s very rough 4 day hike.
Hi Stu, I wanted to ask are there place around Dapa Mountain to set up tents and camp near the mountain itself? it looks from your photos there are some flat areas, but what are your thoughts? Many Thanks, Patrick
[…] was to find Guanwu Waterfall though. I had mistakenly thought that this waterfall was part of the Dabajianshan hike (the famous mountain on the 500 TWD bill) but there are other interesting waterfalls on that hike […]